Long before Stonehenge and before the Egyptian pyramids, back when mammoths and saber-toothed cats still roamed the earth, prehistoric people painted deep inside these caves. The Dordogne’s limestone cliffs - honeycombed with painted caves - are unique on this planet. To step back even farther in time, visit one of the area’s prehistoric caves. After some dicey negotiations with military types much stronger than him, the local lord would gather his subjects and declare either, “Now you are French” or “Now you are English … deal with it.” From that ledge, I reenacted a goofy little speech, which I imagine happened many times during the Hundred Years’ War, fought between the French and English (1337 to 1453). The attendant let me unlock a huge plank door that opened up a treacherous little balcony high above the castle grounds. In the knights’ mess hall, it felt as if the cooks had just taken a break. The castle was lit by little oil lamps - puddles of light giving the spiral staircase a visual rhythm. It was like stepping back into medieval times. And the noble-lady of the castle herself - land rich but, apparently, cash poor - sold me a ticket to enter and prowl around. Pulling my canoe up in Beynac, I hiked up to the brooding, cliff-clinging château. On one particularly memorable Dordogne day, I enjoyed a perfect storm of travel thrills. Two of the most picturesque are La Roque-Gageac, a strong contender for “cutest town in France,” and Beynac, a well-preserved medieval village that winds like a sepia-tone film set from the river to the castle above. There’s always a place to stow the canoe, and plenty of welcoming villages. Delights are revealed around each bend, and you can pop ashore whenever you like. I can’t think of a more relaxing way to enjoy great scenery while getting some exercise. When I’m here, one of my rituals is exploring the riverside castles and villages via canoe. Its highlights include rock-sculpted villages, prehistoric cave paintings, fertile farms surrounding I-should-retire-here cottages, floats along the river and a local cuisine worth loosening your belt for. Whether young or old, visitors to the Dordogne are easily charmed by its unforgettable blend of man-made and natural beauty. I’d take her for a lazy canoe ride down the river, then cap the day with a great riverside meal - letting her enjoy goose liver (explaining what it was later) with the finest glass of French red wine she’s ever had. A reader once asked me if I were to bring a spry, 73-year-old grandmother to Europe, where would I go? My response: France’s Dordogne River Valley.

Road map dordogne france